woodworking.de

As far as I know its hasn't been done on a backsaw, so it will be an opportunity to test my skills.

I am using Australian Jarrah with some very nice feature through it for the handle. Its not the easiest of timbers to shape with, but its still doable.

The saw plate will be of 0.020 gauge; 20 inches x 3 inches below the spine.

For those not familiar with the shape of a D8 heel; here is one I recently refurbished.

[URL=http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20refurbishment/_DSC0457_zpsfeb8fh9s.jpg.html][/URL]

The handle is still in its early stages of shaping, with the saw plate slot completed.

Stewie;

[URL=http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0508_zpsj4lra06p.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0509_zpssh2dk0fr.jpg.html][/URL]

HI Stewie,

interesting. I never saw an advantage of the handle-inserted blade at panelsaws, and so I don't see any in back saws.
The part under der handle isn't used be 99.9% of the users. I can tell from old saws I've sharpened. Ididn't see any signs of use there.

So it is a optical thing?

Cheers Pedder

Kurz auf deutsch:

Stewie plant eine Rückensäge, bei der das Ende des Blattes in den Griff eingelassen ist, wie bei der gezeigten Disston D8.
Ich habe ihn nach den Hintergründen gefragt, da ich vom Schärfen alter Sägen weiß, dass dieser Teil des Sägeblattes praktisch nicht genutzt wird.

Hi Pedder. The heel extension serves no useful purpose. Its just an added visual detail.

regards Stewie;

Hi Stewie,

OK, I got that.

A coffee later Harvey Peace came into my mind:

http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/hwpeace/saws/backsaws/new_backsaw.php

The new things in classic handtols are rare.

Cheers
Pedder

Hi Pedder. Nice research . Looks like it has been done before on a backsaw.

Stewie;

The primary heel cut of the saw plate is indicated by the pencil line that runs vertically down the cheek. (2nd photo)

To cut the saw plate slot on my backsaw handles I use a slitting blade mounted to a router table.

The tool holder I use for the slitting blades has an O.D. of 30mm. For this handle I chose a slitting blade with a 40mm O.D x 0.020 gauge. This gave me an effective cutting depth of 5mm. Ideal for the bottom rail of the handle. Other areas of the handle that needed further deepening of the slot, such as through the cheek of the handle, a backsaw with a matching 0.020 saw plate gauge was used. (no set on the saw teeth).

Stewie;

Thin gauge slitting blades are not designed to be run at high speed. If you wish to trial my method I would advice you to proceed with caution. Only use a variable speed router that's mounted securely on a router table, with the router speed set at its slowest rpm.

Stewie;

A slight change to the final sizing of the saw plate. The new dimensions are 18" L x 2 1/2 D (below the spine).

[URL=http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0510_zpsaijsxa32.jpg.html][/URL]

Shaping the contoured heel on the saw plate was fairly straight forward using a Dremel with a grinding stone attachment.

[URL=http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0512_zpsktm8daux.jpg.html][/URL]

A close up of the heel fit with the handle in position.

[URL=http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0511_zpsplkb2spy.jpg.html][/URL]

Next step will be installing the 3 x saw bolt assemblies.

Stewie;

The saw bolt assemblies have been installed.

Shaping of the edge profiles on the handle has started.

Stewie;

[URL=http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0513_zpshzoocf70.jpg.html][/URL]